Some time ago, I found myself in the unenviable position of having to describe a crumpet to one of my friends. Despite my repeated attempts, he still had no clue what I was talking about, and kept on thinking I was describing an English Muffin.

Well, a couple of things. A crumpet is nothing like an English muffin, even if they had them in England, which they don’t. As I’m sure you know, these are little loaves, split down the middle and toasted. A crumpet is an entirely different animal, more akin to a thick pancake, with lots of holes in the top, ready to suck up as much butter as you can spread on it. As a matter of fact, they were banned in Britain during the Second World War, as they would quickly burn through a family’s measly ration.

As for the entomology of the word, things are a little fuzzy. They are thought to have originated in Wales, where the lack of ovens obliged people to cook over an open hearth. They made a cake called picklets, which were a staple of the Welsh died well into the 19th century.

The first reference to crumpets appears in “A Scripture Herbal,” published in 1694 by William Westmacott. He notes: “They make Cakes of it (Buck Wheat) … as they do oat-cakes, and call it Crumpit.” Elizabeth Raffald published the first recipe for the dish in 1769 in her book “The Experienced Housekeeper.” This recipe includes eggs, which disappeared later.

When the Victorians adapted the dish, they included baking powder to the recipe, which gives the batter its distinctive frothy nature, filled with holes. At the same time, they came up with crumpet rings, which binds the cake and helps it to rise in the pan.

Originally, crumpets were seen as being food for the poor, with leftover scraps of bread dough cooked on a griddle. By the 18th century, however, they became popular with the gentry, being part of the newly-instituted tradition of tea time. Eventually, Victorian bakeries were turning them out en masse, and their place in British cuisine was assured.

Remember that reference to English muffins? Well, they were the creation of Samuel Beth Thomas, who emigrated to New York City in the late 19th century. His version, raised by yeast and steam, he called the “toaster crumpet,” the name English muffins coming along later.

The thing about crumpets is they take a very long time to make. You also have to have English muffin rings on hand, to stop the batter spreading around the pan. But, if you have a real interest in trying this British delicacy, you’ll find they’re well worth the effort. Just make sure you have plenty of butter on hand.

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CRUMPETS

1 cup flour

1 tablespoon active dry yeast

1 teaspoon caster sugar

1 cup milk (warm, at 85 F)

¼ teaspoon salt

Butter (for baking)

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Pour the yeast into a glass bowl and mix it with 4 teaspoons of warm milk.

Set aside for 15 minutes in a warm, draft-free place.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, add the flour and mix with the sugar.

Dig a well in the center and stir in the diluted yeast and remaining milk.

Using the flat beater, mix at a low speed until obtaining a smooth and homogeneous dough.

Add the salt and, using the whisk attachment, whisk the dough at medium speed for 2 minutes.

Cover the bowl with a cloth and let the dough rise for 1 hour, in a warm place, away from drafts.

Place 2 or 3 greased pastry rings of about 3 inches diameter and 1½ inches high, in a very hot buttered pan.

Pour 1 ladle of dough into each of them.

Cook on low heat for about 6 to 8 minutes or until the top of the dough is dry and small holes form on the surface.

Remove the circles.

Turn the crumpets over and continue cooking for 2 to 3 minutes.

Repeat the process with the rest of the dough.

Serve immediately. Makes three servings.

(Recipe from 196flavors.com.)

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