History books are full of unfounded myths, generally centering on some pivotal event in a particular culture. One of these involves the landing of the Pilgrims, and the idea that local tribes introduced them to the pumpkin.

Absolute nonsense. The pumpkin, which had been cultivated by Central Americans for about 5,500 years, was grabbed by the Spanish on their bloodthirsty raids through those areas in the 16th century. By the time the English showed up on these shores, it was already a well known crop, dubbed “pompeons” from the French “pompon,” due to their globular shape.

What is known is that the newcomers made prodigious use of this vegetable, including it in stews and soups. One of these dishes is the forerunner of today’s pumpkin pie, where they would take sweetened milk, mixed with spices and eggs, and place it in a pumpkin shell. They would then set it by the side of the fire to slowly stew. Nevertheless, it is likely that it featured at the first Thanksgiving celebration, where the 50 surviving Pilgrims shared a three-day feast with the Wampanoag Indians.

Pumpkin pie is one of those dishes with a history rife with political and cultural importance. Although it is known as a Yankee concoction, its roots go right back to Europe. For instance, a 1653 French cookbook had a recipe where it advised the cook to boil the pumpkin in milk and then strain it before placing it in a crust. Hannah Woolley threw her hat into the ring in 1670, when she included a recipe for pumpkin pie in her “Gentlewoman’s Companion.” This dish involved alternating layers of pumpkin, spiced rosemary, apples, and thyme.

The Colonists took pumpkin pie to heart, using the spices available at the time – particularly, ginger, nutmeg, cloves and nutmeg. For over 100 years, this remained the traditional recipe. In 1705, the Connecticut town of Colchester postponed its Thanksgiving celebration for a week, due to a local shortage of molasses.

In 1796, Amelia Simmons, the author of the first cookbook geared specifically to American cooking, included it in her book, “American Cookery.” This was an open-faced pie, basically the same as what we enjoy today.

By the time of the Civil War, the dessert was a matter of contention between the North and South, not least because it had been celebrated by the abolitionist Sarah Josepha Hale, who included it in her 1827 novel “Northwood.” Hale was instrumental in making Thanksgiving a national holiday, petitioning President Lincoln for years before he relented in 1863.

Things really took off for pumpkin pie in 1929, when Libby’s introduced their own line of roasted and canned pumpkin. Now, home cooks didn’t have to deal with all that carving and roasting. One can could produce a reasonable pie in half of no time.

Since then, it has gained a place at the Thanksgiving table, and is an indelible aspect of the autumn season.

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TRADITIONAL PUMPKIN PIE

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1 (14.1 oz.) package refrigerated piecrusts

1 1/2 cups plus 2 Tbsp. buttermilk, divided

Parchment paper

1 (15 oz.) can pumpkin

3/4 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

2 large eggs

1 large egg yolk

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Preheat oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit. Fit 1 piecrust into a 9-inch metal pie pan according to package directions, pressing the excess dough onto rim of pie pan. Cut shapes from remaining piecrust to use around pie edge. (We used a 1/2-inch round cutter.) Brush 1 Tbsp. buttermilk around pie edge; arrange shapes around pie edge, pressing to adhere. Brush shapes with 1 Tbsp. buttermilk. Prick bottom and sides of piecrust 8 to 10 times with a fork. Line piecrust with parchment paper, and fill with pie weights. Bake 15 minutes.

Whisk together pumpkin, next 6 ingredients, and remaining 1 1/2 cups buttermilk in a large bowl. Pour mixture into piecrust.

Bake at 425 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 325 degrees Fahrenheit, and bake 35 to 40 more minutes or until edge of filling is slightly puffed and center is slightly jiggly. Cool on a wire rack 1 hour. Store in refrigerator up to 2 days. Makes eight servings.

(Recipe adapted from Southern Living.)

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