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Nashua’s CodeX scheduled to reopen Aug. 25

By EMILY VASSAR - Sunday Telegraph Staff | Aug 22, 2020

Prohibition era-themed bars can be entertaining and even charming. Pre-Covid, it was fun to get a small group of friends together to visit a local establishment that serves up classic, perhaps bizarre-to-us cocktails and savory small plates, delivered by staff dressed in period clothing, sometimes even working in character. Old-timey, tinny music of horns and light drums often played in the background, or a talented pianist banged away on the keys in a dimly lit corner.

Obscuring their true identities as real speakeasies had to, these intriguing joints are tucked away in backrooms of cafés or masquerade as used bookstores. Vintage black and white photos and drab prints of paintings adorn the walls; bookshelves are laden with encyclopedias, time-worn magazines, and seemingly ancient volumes of random short novels and young adult dramas- Gatsby, Tarzan, The Adventures of TinTin- standing idly in their homes, collecting dust, only periodically lifted and opened out of curiosity.

The speakeasies of yesteryear were sometimes subdued, smokey, nondescript back rooms full of men in coveralls, talking amongst each other, being quiet with purpose, determination; others were compact dancehalls, bustling and bursting at the seams, making the crisp woods or murky swampland around them tremble, even reverberate.

The stylized character of today’s themed bars are charming, but there was nothing charming about Prohibition, lasting 13 strenuous years, and the effects it had on the economy, urban crime levels, family dynamics, and mental health. Only on the surface could it be considered “well-meaning”, even generations later.

Alcoholism was rampant and tearing apart the very fabric of the nation, but it can be argued with merit that the solution actually caused more damage than it repaired.

What started as a crusade for the greater “moral character” of the country resulted in prolific drug abuse and overdoses. Addicts suffered brain damage from consuming poisonous liquids, while others succumbed to painful deaths. Prohibition provided organized crime syndicates with seemingly endless cash flow, saw thousands brutally murdered for being on the wrong side of the law or the tracks, and without any doubt played a part in triggering the landslide of the Great Depression by wiping out millions in federal revenue that had been provided by taxes and alcohol licensing.

Ratified in 1920, the 18th Amendment criminalized the production, importation, transportation, and sale of alcohol, save for the religious use of wine and that which was prescribed by doctors, some of whom, not beacons of moral character themselves, were able to pad their pockets quite nicely.

Interestingly enough, possessing alcohol was not a crime- but local municipalities and counties had the freedom to be much stricter than the strong arm of the federal government. Bootleggers, moonshiners, the mob, street gangs, politicians and police officers, even federal judges and prosecutors profited from the byproducts of ambition that leached from the ideals of Prohibition.

Saloons closed overnight, laying the groundwork for home distilleries to be constructed, misty mountain moonshine stills to chug and bubble away, and speakeasies to be established beyond back alleyway alcoves, in the basements of private homes, in backwoods shanties, all under everyone’s noses. And when the desired effects of those “home brews”, often concocted using poisonous ingredients like creosote for color and embalming fluid for an extra punch, eventually took longer to kick in, many addicts turned to even more dangerous substances- hair tonic, sterno, rubbing alcohol, to name a few. Opium dens popped up everywhere, especially in larger cities like New York, Chicago, Boston, San Francisco and Philadelphia.

On Dec. 5, 1933, the 21st Amendment was ratified, and the 18th was repealed. To this day, it is the only time that one amendment came to be in order to repeal another.

Today we are better equipped to combat and treat alcoholism and substance abuse, although it remains a constant challenge. Perhaps it always will. Regardless, bars and restaurants can serve alcohol while enriching the communities they serve. Not only do they provide safe environments for us to gather, many donate time and raise money for local and national charities. Owners and employees are strictly trained and certified by the state Liquor Commission to responsibly serve patrons, check ID’s and determine their authenticity, and maintain safe and hygienic work spaces.

Nashua is home to a well-known and loved establishment that hones in on and celebrates the ingenuity and creativity that was spun out of Prohibition in order to create and operate speakeasies. CodeX B.A.R (“Books, Antiques, Rarities) is conveniently located downtown on Elm Street.

Having determined at the onset of the industry shutdown, with business restricted to take-out and delivery, that it did not fit their model, they made the difficult decision to temporarily shut their doors. When restaurants were able to reopen for outdoor dining at the beginning of the summer, they could not rejoin the ranks, as they only have indoor space. Now, thankfully, the countdown is on for their reopening this coming Tuesday, August 25.

No sign hangs above the exterior entrance, although there is one on the West Pearl Street building face. During operating hours, 20’s and 30’s music often plays lightly from a small speaker mounted above the Elm Street door. When you walk through that door, you are confronted by an office-like foyer, but don’t let it deter you. The entrance is shared with a non-profit agency, after all. Stay to the right and follow the slight incline, where at the end and to your right, you will find a bookcase packed with books; this is the door. Pull the ring attached to one, and it dings a bell inside for the hostess. She will welcome you into a different world and era.

The first thing you might notice is the lighting- or the limited presence of it. Red bulbs light the space just enough to let you navigate your way around antique tables, chairs and couches. All of the windows are obscured one way or another. Just past the working antique upright piano, the bar itself is to the left in a room with a few high top tables. The main sitting room holds tables and chairs of various sizes and styles, and all seem to date much prior to, say, the 40’s or 50’s. Couches and high-back upholstered chairs at low coffee tables are situated appropriately to the space. Small groups or couples can tuck themselves away in dim corners, sit back, and relax.

CodeX offers small plate finger foods and some entrees, which rotate seasonally, but the main attraction is their extensive period-appropriate list of libations. From the classic Old Fashioned to martinis and signature cocktails, there is something for anyone who cares to partake. They even have a selection of craft beer and wines.

Their Espresso Martini is a favorite for many, using an infused vodka made in-house, Crème de Cacao, Kahlua, and topped with an eggwhite foam and two or three espresso beans. The Moscow Mule is a classic, with vodka, lime and ginger beer. The Sazerac is an interesting combination of whiskey, bitters, sugar, and an absinthe rinse. Lesser-known and worth a try, a Brandy Alexander, Negroni, Corpse Reviver or Last Word should pass your lips at some point. A Bee’s Knees is a safe bet, with gin, raw honey and lemon; the French Martini contributes to your daily vitamin intake with vodka, chambord and pineapple juice; and the Aviation takes you for an adventure with gin, Crème de Violette, Luxardo and lemon.

The talented mixologists at CodeX also create their own special cocktails with style. Based on the website, fourteen different selections are available, but could change upon the re-opening. If you like things spicy, you may be able to ask for a “Mind If I Smoke?” (Mezcal, lime, agave, jalapeño, ancho reyes and smoked chili bitters); the Lady Lavender is sweet and refreshing (gin, lavender, lemon, orange flower water and orange bitters); a Pink 75 is light and fizzy (gin, elderflower, grapefruit and prosecco); the Killer Bee is a mischievous twist on the Bee’s Knees (gin, ancho reyes, local honey, lemon, jerk bitters, and an egg white foam), and the Ginger Snap is tasty with a decent bite (whiskey, lemon, raw honey, ginger liqueur, and ginger beer).

CodeX B.A.R has been greatly missed. Their reopening is a sign that here in Nashua, we take our roles in looking out for ourselves and each other very seriously, and value our restaurant industry. Their creativity and hospitality is a true example of how far we have come in our ability to get together and drink responsibly.

If you or someone you know is suffering from untreated mental illness, alcoholism or substance abuse, you can contact the SAMHSA (Substance Abuse and Mental Health Services Administration) hotline, tollfree, at 1-800-662-HELP (4357).

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