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A glimpse at Vietnamese cuisine and its history

By EMILY VASSAR - Sunday Telegraph Staff | Jul 25, 2020

If colonial occupations and territorial conflicts throughout prior centuries were to be compared to tug-o-war competitions, Vietnam could be described as one of the strongest ropes to survive being yanked back and forth in fervent contention. Entwined within the unbreakable fibers woven out of resilience, determination and a passion for the land and its natural resources so sacred to them, the people of Vietnam emerged from the tragedies of their past with a humble yet joyful passion for life. Their chapters of occupation and conflict piqued the world’s interest around 1887, seeing domination by monarchies obsessed with having their hands in the stories of other countries, through any means necessary. France was by far the greatest offender in colonized Vietnam, but Great Britain and Japan also had brief yet significant roles in denying the people the right to self-govern.

The chapters of colonial rule finally concluded in the summer of 1954. Those seventy-odd years of occupation were not necessarily full of bloodshed, but it was not a period of harmonious coexistence, either. The vast majority of the ethnic Vietnamese population was made up of those forced into absolute poverty through land appropriation, aggressive taxation, indentured servantry (read: “ethical slavery”), and exclusion from education and medicine accessibility. They were denied ownership of the land their families had lived on and farmed for centuries, access to the rice which they were indentured to cultivate, and the schooling and basic human rights that the families of the privileged few and French colonists, military personnel and governors enjoyed with ease and abundance.

The Vietnam War was unmistakably the bloodiest, most sorrowful period in the country’s very complicated past. Opinions vary when it comes to who “won” and who “lost” that most recent war of wars, and who was “right” and who was “wrong”, but the victory we’re focusing on for the sake of this article is the one laid at the feet of the people, as they were- and are now- the ones who made it the incredibly welcoming and vibrant country it is today.

From under the weight of everything they’d been through, the people rose as one like a phoenix from the literal and figurative ashes, reclaiming, rebuilding and nourishing their land and lives. Celebration comes in the form of the culture not only surviving, but prospering- and being shared with us all around the world. To me, one of the most immediately rewarding ways to appreciate Vietnamese culture is to explore the amazing array of food and beverages, offered by such warm and friendly people, right here in New England.

As with so many lands once ruled by foreign entities, countless culinary influences were infused into Vietnamese cuisine and survived long after departure ensued and freedom was gained. Some ingredients and dishes that made the trip from Paris might today, after decade upon decade of integration into Vietnamese life, be decidedly just as Vietnamese in Vietnam as they are French in France. And in fact, some things just weren’t French in origin at all.

French influence in Vietnam started in the 17th century when Catholic missionaries arrived- well before the colonization there and Cambodia, in 1887. Before European influence occurred, China introduced such items as wontons and wheat noodles. New World vegetables like corn and chili peppers also made their way to Vietnam from the Americas through Spain via the Ming Dynasty.

The foundation of Vietnamese cuisine is a focus on balancing flavors, nutrients and colors, and the number 5 prevails over it all. The flavors- spice, sour, bitter, salt and sweet- each align with a bodily organ. They correspond, in order, as follows: gallbladder, small intestine, large intestine, stomach and bladder. The nutrients are powder, water, minerals, protein and fat, and the colors are white, green, yellow, red and black. All of this results in a seemingly divine balance between the heating and cooling properties of each ingredient. During the oppressive summers of Vietnam, duck is preferred, as it is considered “cool”, and is served with ginger, which is refreshing while also being considered “warm”. Their winters are quite chilly, and during that time of year, chicken, categorized as “warm”, is favored; served with sour sauce, considered “cool”, the two join in a wonderful balance.

When the French started to arrive in Vietnam, they brought with them items like potatoes and asparagus. Interestingly, before potatoes became popular in France in the 1700’s, they were actually considered “unfit for human consumption”, and were mostly cultivated for the purpose of feeding farm animals- especially pigs. Yams were already present in Vietnam, and remained the more preferred non-rice starch, but western potatoes were utilized and remain to this day. Asparagus was referred to as “Western bamboo shoots”, and was a bit of a novelty, commonly appearing in a soup as a first course at the weddings of those whose families could afford it. Onions made the journey as well (of course). Known as “Western shallots”, they were quick-pickled and enjoyed as a garnish.

One Vietnamese dish very familiar to Westerners is banh mi. It is a sandwich filled with grilled and thick-cut meats, pickled vegetables, paté, and coriander- more commonly known here in the West as cilantro. A fried egg or two can often make the cut as well. The bread is a French baguette in character, but in Vietnam, it is made using rice flour as opposed to wheat flour. This gives it its own unique flavor and texture. Banh mi is truly a harmonious marriage of the two cultures: the fresh herbs and crispy vegetables- and not to mention the colors- are quintessentially Vietnamese; the presence of meat and paté is very much French; and finally, the collaboration on the bread brings it all together. Banh mi is wildly popular here in the states, and has been a much sought-after meal from coast to coast since the 1980’s.

If coffee is one of your favorite things in life, as it is for me, you may be well-familiar with the Vietnamese version. Most commonly served cold and sweetened with condensed milk for a very rich and sweet pick-me-up, it is closer to an espresso blend. France was first introduced to coffee in the 1600’s through the Middle East. When it was brought to colonized Vietnam two centuries later, it was as if by fate: Vietnam has one of the most ideal climates for growing it. Their rich soil and often oppressive humidity levels put them in the position to become the second largest exporter of coffee today.

I was intrigued to learn that a version of flan is enjoyed in Vietnam. Westerners often associate this caramel custard dessert with Mexico. It actually originated in France, and its eventual arrival in Central and South America was of course thanks to Spain. In Vietnam’s case, it obviously came straight from France. Instead of milk, cream and caramel, the use of coconut milk and coffee makes for a unique and refreshing treat.

Pho (pronounced “fuh”) is easily the most recognizable Vietnamese dish. It too has a distinct connection to France, and I was once again surprised in learning this. The base of this robust, nutritious and colorful soup is made up by Vietnamese rice noodles and a meat broth based on French practice. It is theorized that the word “pho” came out of the French “pot au feu”, meaning “stew”. When utilizing beef, which is very uncommon in Eastern cuisine, European influence is further apparent. Thinly cut raw steak, tripe, cuts of pork, meatballs, shellfish, chicken, white fish, quail eggs and tofu are all common proteins found in pho. Added to the mix is usually lemongrass sprouts, shallots, greens and fish sauce. This dish explodes with flavor, texture, color and nutrients, and is perfect for enjoying on a chilly New England day.

All of this is just a glimpse at the diverse and truly inspiring opportunities that Vietnamese cuisine has to offer. In researching the food of one of the most resilient populations in the world, it’s become even more evident to me how much influence of technique and ingredients has been exchanged between so many different cultures over the centuries. Although a large part of Vietnam’s past was fraught with anguish, disparity, famine and conflict, the people refused to succumb to the pain of their loss and suffering. Their collective strength and hospitality are inspiring, and their culinary talents, presented at home and abroad, are a gift.

New Hampshire and Massachusetts are fortunate to be home to many wonderful Vietnamese restaurants. I’ve included information for several of them here, and I encourage you to try them soon.

Local Vietnamese Fare

Saigon Sandwich (Pictured Above)

241 Main St., Nashua

603-598-4700

Pho Tai Loc

28 Railroad Square, Nashua

603-521-8744

Pho Street

427 Amherst St., Nashua

603-718-8678

Pho Golden Bowl

12 Lake Ave., Manchester

603-622-2000

Viet-Thai Restaurant

368 Merrimack St., Lowell

978-446-0977

Saigon Sandwich House

507 Dutton St., Lowell

978-856-7477

Mekong Restaurant

378 Broadway St., Lowell

978-441-6353

Pho Da Lat

131 Drum Hill Road, Chelmsford

978-710-7636

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