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Caribbean food and culture in Nashua year-round

By EMILY VASSAR - Sunday Telegraph Staff | Jul 18, 2020

Pikalonga is an assortment of fried finger foods available at El PiKoteo Latinos Cafe in Nashua.

Caribbean food has evolved tremendously over the centuries. With significant contributions from the indiginous tribes that thrived there prior to the late 1400s, it transformed through influences and impressions made by European colonizers. Five centuries-worth of colonial rule through Spain, Denmark, France and Great Britain resulted in culinary influences possibly seen now as “native”, in a broad sense, to many who are not from the Islands. Some staples such as oranges, limes, mangoes, rice, coffee, coconut, chickpeas and cilantro were actually brought over by colonial immigrants from around the world. Today, Caribbean food is predominantly a fusion of African, Indiginous North American, European, East Indian, Middle Eastern and Chinese cuisines. Latino Caribbean cultures saw influence mainly from Spain and Portugal, with strong African contributions as well. The chain of tropical islands so many of us flocked to on vacation getaways in the pre-Covid days were once inhabited by indiginous tribes who were the victims of genocide and slavery. Those who were not wiped out by these atrocities were lost through the tragic impacts and results of wars, diplomatic rivalries, and disease brought to their beautiful shores by world powers and British and Spanish buccaneers. The genetic lines simply vanished, and the Islands were populated by the ancestral colonists, slaves and adventurers of today’s incredible Caribbean population. What has come out of all of this is a culturally and ethnically diverse people who are generous, kind, joyful and resilient. Unsurprisingly, the incredible food from this region of the world is a testament to that. From the Bahamas to Puerto Rico to Trinidad and Tobago, the people come from a place of warmth- not just in the sun, but in the heart- despite the hardships of the past and, indeed, the present.

Greater Nashua is home to several authentic Caribbean restaurants that provide a wide array of what the Islands have to offer when it comes to food and generosity. Serving mainly Dominican and Cuban fare, El PiKoteo Latinos Cafe boasts a menu of wonderful opportunities. Specializing in the kind of finger foods that can be found purveyed by street vendors and made in homes for celebrations and family gatherings, the folks at El PiKoteo serve an array of foods that feed the soul and enrich our experiences here in Southern New Hampshire. Since most Caribbean food is actually rarely deep-fried (barbecuing, roasting, grilling and boiling of meats and root vegetables are preferred for every-day meals), items like empanadas, fried plantains and queso frito (fried cheese) are considered more of a treat.

The empanadas made at El PiKoteo are huge, packed with fillings of beef, chicken, cheese or corn, and fried to a warm golden color. Two or three could easily make a meal. Tostones (fried green plantains) and Maduro (fried sweet plantains) are served in generous portions. They are delicious sides to be added to any meal, or to snack on with friends. Yuca Frita are the edible root of the cassava plant fried in vegetable oil and served like French fries. Pescado Boca Chica Frito is a whole fried fish served with rice and beans. Ropa Vieja Patakon is a sandwich based on one of the national dishes of Cuba- Ropa Vieja. It uses fried green plantains in place of bread, and is piled high with seasoned, stewed pulled beef with onions, tomatoes and lettuce for a very filling and gluten-free meal. One big plate of assorted fried items seems to dominate here, and it is a sight to see, no matter what size you order. Pikalonga is a signature dish of all fried items, consisting of chicken, sausage, cheese, green plantains, cassava and pastelitos, which are mini empanadas. Choose pequeña (small), mediano (medium) or grande (large), depending on your appetite.

Non-fried foods are also present on this menu, and range from stews to casserole-like dishes and plates of tender chicken, beef, or short ribs with beans and rice. Pollo Guisado (chicken) and Bacalao (white fish) are stews that are so hearty and packed with flavor, you may not have room for anything else. If you’re feeling adventurous or old-school, depending on your generation, you can try the Rabo Guisado (oxtail stew) or Hígado en Salsa (beef liver stew). Albondigas is a stew that contains meatballs of ground beef and rice. Tomatoes, garlic and onions with broth create the base of this delectable recipe, and the meatballs stewed in the broth bring an additional layer of savory abundance. Mofongo is actually a traditional Puerto Rican dish, but is popular enough across parts of the Caribbean that it has a rightful place on El PiKoteo’s menu. The main ingredient is fried green plantains, which are mashed and seasoned with salt, garlic, olive oil and broth. Here, you can order it with fried chicken or beef. Yaroa is a traditional Dominican casserole dish made with mashed sweet plantains, French fries, and your choice of shredded chicken (Yaroa de pollo desmenuzado), ground beef (Yarao de Res Molida) or a mix of the two (Yaroa de Carne Mixta). It is topped with drizzles of ketchup and mayonnaise – talk about comfort food! Traditional and refreshing potato and pasta salads are also available to add to any meal.

Feel free to top off your order with one or two desserts. Delightful and dependable Flan is always an excellent choice. This custard and caramel treat is a direct import from Europe that is not too heavy, not too sweet, and perfect for sharing with a friend. For something a little different, try Tres Leches Cake. Once baked, the fluffy sponge cake itself is pierced to allow for the saturation of a mix of evaporated milk, condensed milk, and heavy cream. This mixture is drizzled over and into the cake. After ample time to allow for a thorough soak, it is topped with a creamy, sugary icing and maraschino cherries. “Decadent” may not even begin to describe it!

Greater Nashua’s diligent support of the local restaurants during the shutdown, and even now with some limitations still in place, is what is helping the local economy recover and steadily start to thrive again. Nearly every single small business in the area and across the nation- the whole world, in fact- has felt some level of hardship throughout the last five or six months. Some have unfortunately closed their doors for good.

As we continue to keep ourselves, our loved ones and our peers within the community as safe as possible by wearing face masks, keeping social distances, and practicing basic hygiene, we can also continue to experience foods and cultures we may not be familiar with by exploring the amazing options around us. El PiKoteo Latinos Cafe is open for lunch and early dinner, and is owned and operated by incredibly friendly and generous folk who serve homemade comfort in every dish.