London Tavern gives English fare an exquisite twist

The Birchwood Inn in Temple dates to the year before the Yanks had it out with the Brits in the American Revolution.

In fact, Revolutionary War veterans are buried in the picturesque little graveyard across the street.

Now, things have come full circle. Andrew Cook and Nick Finnis moved to Temple from their native England in 2004, buying the inn and creating an authentic English tavern on the first floor, including the room with the original countryside mural by famous early 19th-century itinerant New England artist Rufus Porter.

So, here’s what we love: The London Tavern just feels so authentic. It’s such a refreshing change from ersatz Irish and English-themed pubs with their Guinness reproduction posters and professionally distressed woodwork.

The Birchwood Inn, with its undulating, 200-year-old wooden floors, low ceilings and a delightful lack of over-the-top design, is as close to a real English public house as we’re going to get in these parts.

OK, it doesn’t hurt that the friendly proprietors of the inn come and chat about everything from the weather to rugby teams to Disney World, and all just feels so right. Going to the tavern is more an afternoon or evening out than anything else. It’s a slow, relaxed time with plenty of gorgeous scenery out the window and warmth inside.

We know it’s an Irish and not an English ale, but we couldn’t help but start our adventure at the tavern with some draft Guinness ($4) – well pulled, we might add. By the way, there are plenty of English ales to be had at the tavern, and Junior T for T loved his unusual and lovely tart and sweet lemonade ($1.50).

　That gave us plenty of time to look at the menu, including the preface written by the owners talking about the bad rep English food has had in the past.

“No more does England suffer under the image of grey boiled meat! We now have an enviable culinary reputation. In fact some of the great chefs now come from England. Traditional English cuisine is substantial, yet simple and wholesome with many original recipes being revamped to suit today’s diner.”

So, it’s true, you’ll see a lot of traditional English fare on the menu, including bangers and mash – sausage and mashed potatoes – and shepherd’s pie; the English make theirs with lamb, not beef, and in this case, carrots and parsnips, as well as onions and mashed potatoes.

But these dishes are cooked with an eye for fresh and bright flavors, which add interest while maintaining tradition.

We began our meal with starters (not appetizers in England). Mrs. T for T had a cup of Vegetarian Mulligatawny Soup; Mr. T for T had the English Onion Soup($3.75).

The Mulligatawny was fabulous with a slight sweetness that complemented the curry flavor and the tiny chunks of carrot and celery. We loved the addition of raisins.

The English Onion – also a bit sweeter and a little thinner than the French version – was tasty, with a generous cheesy crouton on top.

We shared a plate of Nachos ($5.50), homemade English salsa over tortilla chips with melted cheddar and Salmon Fishcakes ($4.75).

Junior T for T loved the melted cheddar, and those not crazy about hot Mexican salsa will like the milder salsa fresca that comes with this dish.

Mr. T for T really liked his salmon cakes, which were loaded with chunks of fresh salmon and came with a homemade tartar sauce.

For our main meal, Mrs. T for T chose the Steak and Ale Pie ($14.50). She loved the light puff pastry on top, but found the steak in ale gravy lacking a little in seasoning and richness.

Mr. T for T loved his Fisherman’s Pie ($14.50), also with a puff pastry and loaded with haddock, shrimp and crab in a creamy sauce. He liked that the sauce wasn’t too thick and overpowering and felt he’d just indulged in a fresh seafood smorgasbord.

We were able to give ourselves a little breathing room before dessert with a delightful chat with Nick, one of the owners.

We have to say we enjoyed our entire experience at the tavern, but the highlight for us were the desserts – absolutely outstanding.

We ordered a large pot of strong English tea ($1.50) – fantastic – and three desserts: Spotted Dick and Custard ($4.75), Nick’s Nan’s Bread and Butter Pudding ($4.75) and the piece de resistance, Banoffee Pie ($4.75).

The Spotted Dick – no snickers, please – is a traditional English dessert, a suet pudding stuffed with raisins and currents in a wonderful creamy sauce. It was perfection.

The Banoffee was the most amazing pie made with fresh banana, homemade toffee on an oatmeal base and topped with whipped cream.

And finally, the bread pudding, which also comes in a chocolate version, is really different than the American version, made with tastes such as buttery French toast floating in fresh cream with raisins and currents.

None of these desserts is super sweet, like many American desserts. Instead, the fresh ingredients speak for themselves without a lot of added sugar.

These confections themselves are worth the trip to Temple. If you have to work it off, walk around the historic cemetery and charming little town afterward.

Are you looking for something special to do for Valentine’s Day or just to break up the winter monotony? Go to the Birchwood Inn. It’s special.