Food and Drink

Published: Wednesday, November 25, 2009

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‘Ace of Cakes’ star gives behind-the-scenes scoop

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By MICHELLE COLLINS Correspondent

Most people who try pro-snowboarding and quit continue doing something athletic. Some quit to bake cakes.

Jeffrey “Duff” Goldman is one such ex-snowboarder. Goldman, the executive chef and owner of Charm City Cakes in Baltimore, and the star of the Food Network’s “Ace of Cakes,” went from graffiti artist to athlete to full-time cake maker.

“I’ve made every single mistake there is to make in cake decorating,” Goldman said.

Goldman grew up in the small town of Sandwich, Mass., and began his culinary career at 14 at a mall bagel shop. From there, Goldman studied at the Corcoran School in Washington, D.C., and eventually the Culinary Institute of America in Napa Valley, Calif. Throughout his early professional career, Goldman worked for the likes of Baltimore chef Cindy Wolf, pastry chef Steven Durfee and baked bread for Todd English at Olives restaurant in Washington. In 2000, Goldman left Olives and settled in Baltimore to open Charm City Cakes, after years of making his creations for friends and family.

“Everything’s just getting crazier and crazier and crazier,” Goldman said.

Goldman and his staff of 15 are in the midst of filming season eight of their hit Food Network show (set to air Jan. 14), and Duff admits there will be several changes in the upcoming season.

“(You’ll be) seeing a lot more of the other people that are around,” Goldman said. “We’re really broadening our skills.” Don’t expect to see any culinary graduates at Charm City, though: The staff is made up of artists, graphic designers, painters and sculptors, to name a few.

“They’re all hilarious; they’re all very smart,” Goldman said. “No one on the show really cares about fame.”

“Ace of Cakes” highlights the innovative and eccentric cake decorating that Charm City provides, but doesn’t focus much on the cake flavors. Charm City has more than 50 to choose from, including traditional flavors like red velvet and chocolate, and more creative types like orange and ginger, and pumpkin chocolate chip. The folks at Charm City even prepare cakes laced with liquor, but know not to overpower the delicate flavor of the cake.

“I don’t like eating booze; it’s kind of like an assault on the senses,” Goldman said.

Goldman also has something against a certain traditional holiday dessert.

“Don’t, for God’s sakes, make fruit cake,” Goldman said.

Charm City Cakes receives requests year-round for specific, totally-out-there cakes, for everything from weddings and movie premieres to birthdays. However, during the Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays, Charm City’s cake orders slow down significantly.

“People really want stuff that looks homemade … something that reminds them of when they were a kid,” Goldman said. “I think with holiday cake decorating, it’s really important (not to) worry about the decorating part. … Just make sure it tastes good.”

In addition to cake, the staff at Charm City also has a strange obsession with sushi, and Goldman raves about comfort food and kid-friendly classics like deep fried chicken fingers and macaroni and cheese.

“If you cook for 10-year-olds, everybody will be happy,” Goldman said.

In his spare time, Goldman fuels his other passion: music. He is the bass player in the indie instrumental band, so I had to?, which will be releasing its record in February. However, in case one day both cake and music disappear, Goldman has a back-up plan.

“I would have a goat farm … and I’d be making goat cheese,” Goldman said.

Goldman and his brother, Willie, released their first book last month, titled “Ace of Cakes: Inside the World of Charm City Cakes.” Goldman already has unique plans for books No. 2, No. 3 and even No. 4, including a book devoted entirely to wedding cakes, and another all about cake sculpture and architecture. At the end of the day, however, Goldman just hopes that his show and his cakes influence others to follow their dreams – no matter how crazy they may be.

“I hope that we inspire,” Goldman said. “I just want people to be like, ‘Wow. That’s really cool.’ ”

“Ace of Cakes” airs at 10 and 10:30 p.m. Thursdays on the Food Network. For more information on the show, visit www.foodnetwork.com. For more information on the bakery, visit www.charm citycakes.com.

Michelle Collins can be reached at michellep collins@gmail.com.

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